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    Land Trust   Donate Volunteer spam@uce.gov postmaster@[127.0.0.1]   [ login
    Click here to join the SCC or renew your membership!
    Sep 11 Sand Rock Adopt-a-Crag Trail DaySep 18 Lost Wall Adopt-a-Crag Trail DaySep 25 WNC Climbers Weekend at Looking Glass RockSep 25 Little River Canyon Teamworks Trail Day
    Castle Rock to Open
    Posted on Friday, December 30 @ 14:22:35 EST by bradmc
    Feature Article
    After a year of negotiations with local landowners, the cliff at Castle Rock (TN) is now open for climbing. Castle Rock is located near Chattanooga, Tennessee, and is approximately 1/2 mile long of 80 to 120 ft. tall bullet sandstone with over 50 sport and traditional routes.


    The Southeastern Climbers Coalition began work in the fall of 2004 with SCC reps Kirk Brode and Brad McLeod meeting and negotiating with two private landowners. A deal was eventually worked out with the cliffline and hiking access to be leased for $1500 per year. Final papers were being signed during the last week in December 2005.

    Castle Rock is known for it’s quality 5.11 and 5.12 sport climbs and one of the hardest routes in the state of Tennessee - Apes on Acid (5.13d). Early climbing route developers such as Jeff Gruenburg, Jerry Roberts, Chris Chestnutt, Mark Cole and Ron Davis spent considerable time at this crag as it was one of the first areas in the deep south to embrace sport (and mixed gear) climbing in the late 1980’s. Castle Rock is listed as a 4 star (out of 5) crag in Tim Toula’s Rock and Road guidebook.

    The Castle Rock lease adds to a growing list of closed climbing areas that are now re-opened in the deep south. In addition to the lease at Castle Rock and a permit system at Little Rock City, The SCC currently owns and manages three cliff areas (Boat Rock (GA), Kings Bluff (TN), and Jamestown (AL).

    The SCC would like to thank the many donors and volunteers that have worked to make this project a reality. In particular, we would like to thank The Access Fund www.accessfund.org and Shawn Tierney for their continued support and logistics to help open this cliff.

    The SCC Area Reps and Property Managers for Castle Rock are Steve Deweese (prowindow@mindspring.com) and Jerry Roberts (jerryclimber@hotmail.com). If you have any comments on Castle Rock such as reporting trail day work ideas, anchor repair, fundraiser ideas or anything else, shoot us an email!

    More information (directions and updated access info) Click here: Castle Rock Area Report.

    The cliffline is open but we ask that climbers be patient and allow the SCC time to continue finish the trail to the crag and repair anchors. There will be several upcoming work/climb days to check out the crag. If you are interested in seeing Castle Rock email Brad McLeod at mbmcleod@mindspring.com. A schedule of work/climb days will be listed on the message board.

    The crag is currently open only to SCC members since Castle Rock is located on private land and is not owned by the SCC. The long term goal is to purchase the cliffline at Castle Rock and allow open access. Until that point, we are respectfully asking climbers to renew their memberships to climb (just like a hunting club leases land). If you would like to purchase a car decal to show your support for Castle Rock (($10) you can obtain one from Dave Pollard or Brad McLeod mbmcleod@mindspring.com by email.

    You can donate to Castle Rock, renew your SCC membership and obtain your sticker by clicking here:

    Thanks go out to Steve and Amy Deweese for their initial seed money, anchor work, and belief in this project. Also, thanks to Gus Fontenot for his great legal mind and for all of his help on this project.

    Special Thanks to all of the sponsors that helped open Castle Rock!
    Jerry Roberts
    Steve and Amy Deweese
    Shona Pierce
    Sean Cobourn
    Jen Rawlins
    Sam Leflore
    Dave Pollard
    The Tennessee Bouldering Authority (TBA) Gym
    Rock Creek Outfitters
    Dawson Wheeler
    Ashley, Ollie & Brad McLeod
    Curvature Landscapes
    Dave Draper
    Brent McDaniels
    Dave Wilson
    Gina Picard
    Paul Morley
    Jim Corbett (aka Pappy)
    Richard Decredico
    The Atlanta Climbing Club
    Gary Latimer
    Sam Leflore
    Ed Williams
    Chris Watford
    Ben Faber
    Sasha Digiulian
    Palmer Henson
    Curt and Betty Jo Merchant
    Will Eccleston
    Gus Fontenot & Planet Rock
    Cooper Roberts & Sessions video
    Scott Perkins
    Jay Perry
    Michael Crowder

     
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    Access FundTN River Gorge TrustLula Lake Land Trust




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