Castle Rock to Open
Date: Friday, December 30 @ 15:22:35 UTC
Topic: Feature Article


After a year of negotiations with local landowners, the cliff at Castle Rock (TN) is now open for climbing. Castle Rock is located near Chattanooga, Tennessee, and is approximately 1/2 mile long of 80 to 120 ft. tall bullet sandstone with over 50 sport and traditional routes.


The Southeastern Climbers Coalition began work in the fall of 2004 with SCC reps Kirk Brode and Brad McLeod meeting and negotiating with two private landowners. A deal was eventually worked out with the cliffline and hiking access to be leased for $1500 per year. Final papers were being signed during the last week in December 2005.

Castle Rock is known for it’s quality 5.11 and 5.12 sport climbs and one of the hardest routes in the state of Tennessee - Apes on Acid (5.13d). Early climbing route developers such as Jeff Gruenburg, Jerry Roberts, Chris Chestnutt, Mark Cole and Ron Davis spent considerable time at this crag as it was one of the first areas in the deep south to embrace sport (and mixed gear) climbing in the late 1980’s. Castle Rock is listed as a 4 star (out of 5) crag in Tim Toula’s Rock and Road guidebook.

The Castle Rock lease adds to a growing list of closed climbing areas that are now re-opened in the deep south. In addition to the lease at Castle Rock and a permit system at Little Rock City, The SCC currently owns and manages three cliff areas (Boat Rock (GA), Kings Bluff (TN), and Jamestown (AL).

The SCC would like to thank the many donors and volunteers that have worked to make this project a reality. In particular, we would like to thank The Access Fund www.accessfund.org and Shawn Tierney for their continued support and logistics to help open this cliff.

The SCC Area Reps and Property Managers for Castle Rock are Steve Deweese (prowindow@mindspring.com) and Jerry Roberts (jerryclimber@hotmail.com). If you have any comments on Castle Rock such as reporting trail day work ideas, anchor repair, fundraiser ideas or anything else, shoot us an email!

More information (directions and updated access info) Click here: Castle Rock Area Report.

The cliffline is open but we ask that climbers be patient and allow the SCC time to continue finish the trail to the crag and repair anchors. There will be several upcoming work/climb days to check out the crag. If you are interested in seeing Castle Rock email Brad McLeod at mbmcleod@mindspring.com. A schedule of work/climb days will be listed on the message board.

The crag is currently open only to SCC members since Castle Rock is located on private land and is not owned by the SCC. The long term goal is to purchase the cliffline at Castle Rock and allow open access. Until that point, we are respectfully asking climbers to renew their memberships to climb (just like a hunting club leases land). If you would like to purchase a car decal to show your support for Castle Rock (($10) you can obtain one from Dave Pollard or Brad McLeod mbmcleod@mindspring.com by email.

You can donate to Castle Rock, renew your SCC membership and obtain your sticker by clicking here:

Thanks go out to Steve and Amy Deweese for their initial seed money, anchor work, and belief in this project. Also, thanks to Gus Fontenot for his great legal mind and for all of his help on this project.

Special Thanks to all of the sponsors that helped open Castle Rock!
Jerry Roberts
Steve and Amy Deweese
Shona Pierce
Sean Cobourn
Jen Rawlins
Sam Leflore
Dave Pollard
The Tennessee Bouldering Authority (TBA) Gym
Rock Creek Outfitters
Dawson Wheeler
Ashley, Ollie & Brad McLeod
Curvature Landscapes
Dave Draper
Brent McDaniels
Dave Wilson
Gina Picard
Paul Morley
Jim Corbett (aka Pappy)
Richard Decredico
The Atlanta Climbing Club
Gary Latimer
Sam Leflore
Ed Williams
Chris Watford
Ben Faber
Sasha Digiulian
Palmer Henson
Curt and Betty Jo Merchant
Will Eccleston
Gus Fontenot & Planet Rock
Cooper Roberts & Sessions video
Scott Perkins
Jay Perry
Michael Crowder






This article comes from The Southeastern Climbers Coalition
http://www.seclimbers.org

The URL for this story is:
http://www.seclimbers.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=308